Manila’s Coffee Boom Has Three Tiers. The Farmer Isn’t Winning in Any of Them.
A P280 cup of pour-over and a P7 sachet of instant both come from the same Philippine soil. Only one of them is treated like it means something. That contradiction is what I kept circling back to in Quezon City, standing in a room full of people who sell milk tea and frappe for a living, watching a world barista champion launch a Filipino ingredient brand aimed at exactly none of them — and all of them, depending on how you count it. The Collision The champion is Boram Um: Korean family, born in Brazil, took the 2023 World Barista title in Greece. The social media version of his bio stops at “barista.” The more accurate one is economic proof of concept — he took a local agricultural product, vertically integrated the supply chain around it, and forced a global market to pay a premium for the labor of the farm as much as the skill of the extraction. That’s the thesis his championship was built on: not just pulling a great shot, but making …

